The Oyster Guide

“Malagash Thrumcap” sounds like something that comes up at an Audubon Society outing: “Hey, is that a scarlet tanager?” “No, by golly, it’s a Malagash Thrumcap!” But Malagash is a village, on the tongue-twisting highway between Pugwash and Tatamagouche, and it’s my favorite oyster name to say. The oyster itself is secondary to the name. It’s another of those wild, mild, bottom-grown Northumberlandy oysters, big and long with a greenish-white shell and an irregular cup. It’s firm, as all the slow-growing Canadian oysters are, with a mild vegetal flavor.

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